Shalom Sweet Friends!

Rachel and Moshe’s wedding was a wonderful event and the very reason I came to Israel to begin with. Having come all this way, I couldn’t very well leave without seeing the Holy City, Jerusalem. Now, everyone knows that there is continued fighting going on there between the Israeli’s and Palestinians; and consequently every tour guide I talked to said that tourism is down about 60%! Sadly, the good people who are trying to make a living are feeling the pain in many ways. So, to do my part, I signed up for a tour everyday!! My next few posts will include old city of Jerusalem, the Mount of Olives, Bethlehem, Jaresh, Amman and Petra Jordan, as well as Masada and the Dead Sea. Yeah, I blew it out!

Friday morning, I took the express bus from Tel Aviv to Jerusalem, about a 45 minute drive. Once I arrived at the bus station, I walked to my new home away from home, Abraham Hostel. Up until Barcelona, where I stayed in a hostel, I never knew that hostels offered private rooms. I thought they only offered dorm style accommodations; and I’m way too old for that! 🙂  So, now I always look for a fun hostel in which to stay. Abraham Hostel did not disappoint! It’s a huge 3 story building with a learning center, TV room, communal kitchen, bar, indoor hammocks, pool table, piano, laundry room, computer room and a rooftop patio overlooking the city. Very cool place indeed! They have a 24 hour reception and a tour desk for Abraham Tours with who I booked all my tours.

My room was ready when I got there, so I dumped my bags and headed for the old city for another free walking tour with Sandeman’s Tours. Our guide, Yana, was a little difficult to understand but she was informative and answered all our questions. We met outside the city at Jaffa Gate, and began our tour in the Christian Quarter. The city is divided into four quarters: Christian, Muslim, Armenian and Jewish, and each quarter is unique and yet the same in many ways. The Muslim is the most populated and the liveliest with all its shouks and cafes. The Armenian is the smallest and least populated and is basically closed to tourists. There is a lot of overlap with churches, mosques and synagogues standing right next to each other and markets selling goods for Christians, Jews, and Muslims in the same shop. Whatever Pilgrims want, they will sell regardless of religion! Ah, capitalism at its finest.

We visited the Western Wall and saw the Temple Mount; went inside the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, the place of both the crucifixion and the tomb of Jesus (according to some); walked across the Roman excavations and cobblestones from King Herod’s day; viewed David’s Tower and enjoyed stunning views of the Mount of Olives. Yana told us a bit about the controversy of the Temple Mount. Being under Muslim control, Jews are not allowed on the sacred site (sacred to both religions). She explained the Dome of the Rock and its meaning for both Muslims and Jews and Christians and why there is so much fighting and controversy over it.

The city is, well, I’m not sure I have the right word for it, but conflicting is close. Everything seems to be in opposition. There are two sites for the crucifixion and burial of Jesus, one for the Protestants and one for the Catholics/Greek and Eastern Orthodox; one particular rock seems to be both the place where Muhammad ascended into heaven and where the Jews believe the Messiah will return; there are several final resting places for Mary, Mother of Jesus; and the list goes on. Then of course, there is the seemingly endless battle of who controls what piece of land. Don’t get me wrong, I don’t know enough history or enough about the controversy to form an opinion; I’m just making an observation. Everything is in conflict and opposition. The city is ancient and beautiful in many ways, but it kinda leaves you feeling depressed and confused when you walk away.

I walked back to the hostel feeling just that way. Thankfully, the hostel was hosting a communal Shabbat dinner that evening for which I had signed up. I washed up and went to the kitchen to help prepare dinner. We chopped cucumbers, tomatoes, onions, garlic, celery and carrots for about an hour and a half. Apparently, a lot of people signed up! The table was set with small cups of red wine, pita, hummus and spices to accompany our dinner. Around 8 PM, we sat together while the Rabbi blessed the dinner and explained a little of the tradition behind the Shabbat dinner. It was lovely. There was plenty of veggies for me to eat along with hummus and falafel (two staples for me in Israel). Everyone was talkative and I met a bunch of very nice people from all over the world – Poland, Germany, California, Russia and Australia. Now, THIS is the way the world should work! It was awesome!!

After dinner, we helped clean up and someone started playing the piano. Others were playing pool but most people gathered around the bar for drinks. I hung out talking to a few people and then headed to my room feeling grateful for a full belly and new acquaintances. Tomorrow’s tour is the Mount of Olives and promises a lot of walking, so early to bed for me!

Enjoy your day sweet friends and steer clear of controversy and conflict. Pray for peace every day. L’chaim!