Buongiorno Sweet Friends!

I just returned from a fab four days in the very wet city of Venice. It’s one of the most unique cities I’ve been to with its canals, water taxis (no cars/buses whatsoever), labyrinth of streets with no names and endless restaurants and shops. Almost all of the island is devoted to tourism! I was told there are 12,000 Venetians on the island and the number of tourists is always 12,000+ so the locals are always outnumbered. That’s a tough way to live frankly and the streets and waterways are so narrow that it seems crowded even during low season, which is when I was there.

I have lots to tell you about Venice, but I have to start with a few travel tips. In fact, I’m starting a new page of travel tips where you can find advice on every city I’ve been to with focus being on female solo travel, although the tips will be applicable to everyone. Venice is a labyrinth of very narrow, cobblestone streets and while this is very charming, it is also difficult to navigate especially when you first arrive with your luggage in tow. And forget about using your GPS! It does not work, trust me. It causes more frustration than its worth!

So, travel tip #1 (and maybe the  most important) – travel LIGHT! I cannot stress this enough. Trying to navigate the streets to find your hotel is difficult enough without dragging a large suitcase behind you. And there are no escalators, elevators, or ramps over the hundreds of bridges you will have to cross in order to get through the city.  I saw so many people, well OK husbands, dragging these huge suitcases through the city, through the high tides, up and over the many bridges, and they looked more than miserable. I could tell their trip was already ruined. I have a very small suitcase and a computer bag that I carry everywhere and it was manageable, but still a pain when you are also trying to hold a map and figure out where you are. There are porter services available that will meet you at your water taxi (if you choose a taxi) and haul your luggage to your hotel but it is VERY expensive and most families are not willing to pay the extra money thinking they can do it by themselves. Save yourself the expense and considerable trouble by packing very light in a small suitcase that you can also easily pick up and carry. If you can’t avoid large suitcases, consider leaving your large bags at the airport or train station in left luggage and carrying a small bag into the city. Problem solved!

I arrived by train from Milan, so I was already on the island and did not have to take the airport train or water shuttle to the city. I made my way outside Santa Lucia train station and headed for the Vapretto ticket office. Mobility in Venice is by waterways, canals  and pedestrian walkways consisting of, in Venetian language, calle, campo, fondamenta, salizzada, that are connected by a substantial number of bridges. There are private water taxis that you can hire along with private porters to haul your luggage, but if you’re like most people, you will navigate the city using the Vaprettos or public water transport/shuttles. It’s basically the Venetian bus system but it’s very expensive compared to public transportation in other cities. One ticket is 7Euro! It’s valid for 60 minutes so you can hop on and off for 60 minutes, but it’s still a very expensive way to travel. You can purchase a day ticket for 20Euro but if you are staying several days that is a very expensive way to get around. The only time I used the Vapretto was to travel to/from my hotel with my luggage and a quick trip to Burano island; short of that, I walked. It’s the best way to see everything anyway!

My hotel, Tourist House San Lio, looked to be on a fairly large street or calle, at least it did to me on the map. Well, there are no large streets in Venice, there are only small, narrow and WTH! So, I hop off the Vapretto at Rialto bridge, consult my map and begin the hunt for my hotel, or the QUEST as I came to call it as I might as well have been looking for the Holy Grail! All the switchbacks, twists and turns of the narrow calles are not shown on the map, you just have to keep going around and through all the switchbacks until you come upon a street name that is on the map. Now, think about doing this as you are dragging a rather large suitcase (or two) behind you! My hotel did not have a large sign, most don’t, but only a plaque on the door. I must have passed it several times on my quest but was looking up for the hotel sign. Ahhhh, but it was not to be so easy!

Check-in was not here but at another location “just around the corner.” Again, I set off on my quest to check-in to my hotel and dump my bag. After several attempts, wrong turns and an inquiry at another hotel that did have a sign, I finally found the second nondescript door with yet another small plaque that read only “El Braggada, for check-in ring the bell.” I rang the bell and was allowed access to a room with more stairs, so up I went and up some more praying that this was indeed my holy grail. At the top was a very small room with a desk, computer and a real person. I said, “for the love of all things sacred, please tell me this is where I check in for San Lio Tourist House.” He laughed and said, “Si Signora, this is the check-in.” I wanted to kiss him on the mouth right then and there. He said, yes Venice is a labyrinth and difficult for most people especially on arrival. I agreed! He then sent me back to the previous door and site of my lodgings for the next three days.

As I said, there are no elevators in most buildings and stairs are your only option unless you have the luxury of a bellman. I did not. As one concierge in another city put it, “these buildings were built before your country was discovered!” Valid point.  Thankfully, I was on the first floor and the room, while tiny, had heavy-duty, insulated windows that kept out the street noise from below. This is important to note and ask about when choosing a hotel! A high floor might ensure no street noise but it might also mean six flights of stairs! Ask about the windows! (see Travel Tips for more great stuff)

Finally, I was able to dump my luggage and head out. I had signed up for a 3 PM free walking tour of Venice online and now I had to backtrack to the train station to find the meeting point. I decided to chance the 60 minute time limit on my Vaparetto ticket and use it to get back to the train station! Thankfully, my hotel was located very close to the Grand Canal and the Rialto bridge stop so I was able to grab the next shuttle back to the station.

I always Google “free walking tour” for every major city and I’ve always found a group that offers tours for tips. It’s usually local students who offer great city insights and secrets to getting around and they simply work for tips. This tour was no exception! Our guide was a gorgeous Italian girl who was indeed a University student. She was pleasant, efficient and informative. She briskly walked us through the Jewish Ghetto and explained its fascinating and somewhat bleak history (did you know the word ghetto comes from Venice? at least that’s what she told us!). We walked through the narrow streets and she explained how to better navigate the city. Oh, how I wish she had been with me earlier! She explained the difference between an osteria, trattoria, ristorante, caffe, snack bar and a bacareto, as well as the importance of the Venetian “happy hour” where you can get cheap drinks and Cicchetti. The Venetian drink of choice is a spritz – a combination of Prosecco, orange Campari and club soda with ice, an olive and an orange slice. These are served in various bars or snack bars along with Cicchetti or tapas that you can purchase individually. A spritz is typically 2Euro and Cicchettis vary from 1-2Euro for a plate full. And it’s where locals and tourists can mingle and enjoy the city’s food together!

She also told us about the traghettos. A traghetto is a retired gondola that is used to ferry six people max across the canal. It’s a short ride that lasts only a minute but it’s super cheap at only 2 Euro!! Compare that with a legit 40 minute gondola ride that costs 80Euros! Jeez!!! I used the traghetto a couple of times, got my pic with the gondoliers and I was happy!

After our 3 hour tour, it was 6 PM and I was starving, so I went with a couple from the tour to a bacareto next door that our guide recommended. We stood outside and ate cicchetti and talked. He was from France and she was from Britain and they both worked for Airbus. They were delightful, and as I told them, it was nice to have someone to talk to during the dinner hour as this is the only time I wish I had a travel companion on my adventures. They were more than happy to keep me company!

After my first Venetian happy hour, I wandered back towards my hotel. Thankfully, the tour ended very near Rialto bridge and my hotel so I didn’t have to navigate my way back in the dark, and it is very dark. Venice does not have interior street lights since there are no cars or buses and once the businesses start closing it can get dark fast!

I gratefully found my nondescript door, climbed the stairs and fell into my bed. It had been a very fun-filled, tiring day, and I was very happy to be in my small room with its well insulated windows!

Check back tomorrow for more on Venice and Acqua Alta!  Ciao ciao!